So
many ideas, so little time:
nine hours later it was prickly pear syrup, not jelly
For
years I have had the desire to make preserves with
the fruit of prickly pear, and somehow I talked my
friends into the project, which they approached with
zeal and vim, something that would wane decidedly
by the end of a spiny, prickly, purple adventure in
a small kitchen on a nearby ranch.
The easiest part of the task was the pre-jelly making
ranch breakfast before getting down to the serious
work. Breakfast went into overtime over coffee, but
it was so pleasant on this particular Saturday to
continue the conversations that have made us friends.
Picking the tunas was a cake walk -- the ripe ones
break easily from the prickly pads with a pair of
tongs, a good thing because two hours past high noon
is an ill-advised time of the day to pick fruit in
the desert.
I mused over who thought how much was enough when
the pear picking was going on, a musing that gave
me my first indication of how opinionated we each
were, how different, and what bearing those two observations
might have as four strong-willed women undertook to
cook and put up jelly. I don't know which contrasting
indicator hit me first. Was it that two of my friends
were wearing open-toed shoes into the monte? Or was
it in the moment that I heard Adrienne's harvest of
tunas hit the walls of an ice chest to fill it, which
gave me the idea we might be overshooting the scope
of the project. But on the scale that pear fills the
landscape of our ranch, we weren't making a dent in
available supplies. Our compañera Dr. Jeffrey,
an anthropologist with strong environmental convictions,
worried that perhaps we were depriving birds and other
wildlife of valuable food. Nah!
I had used only tongs, long ones, and still hadn't
made contact with thorns of any kind. Some of my compañeras
had by now come up against the tiny thorns.
We had been organized to a point. Diana had picked
up the canning jars and pectin and had uniformly cut
lemon peels to mix into the jelly. I'd pulled recipes
off the Internet, more than I'd needed, something
that would become a problem as it became apparent
that we of so many diverse points of view were offered
too many choices. Each recipe had a suggestion for
how to get the clusters of minute thorns off the pear
fruit. Though Dr. Jeffrey said several times that
burning them over the flame of a candle worked best,
the majority acted to boil the pear and then peel
off the outer skin that held the thorns to the pear.
From the kitchen I took in the purple scenario unfolding
before me in the next room. One candle, scented; 20
kilos of boiled cactus fruit; another 20 kilos with
thorns intact; a building chorus of "damned espinas."
I did what I knew I had to do, which was to continue
to have no contact with the fruit and to build a fire
in the hearth to roast the thorns off the tunas. Impaling
them two at a time on several of the long steel forks
we keep near the hearth, the process worked rather
well, and I was told the heat removal system was a
good one.
We'd clearly over-estimated the size of our project,
not only on how many pear fruit we had gathered, but
also on how many we had roasted and parboiled. This,
coupled with protracted discussions over which recipe
would work best, is when I began to understand today's
exercise was a learning experience, something that
would become more clear as the brilliantly colored
mix of sweet, delicious cooked fruit, sugar, and pectin
wouldn't stiffen or stand, something that clarified
for us that removing the hard, sequin-sized seeds
was a very important step in the process.
We'd added too much water when we added the lemon
peel, Diana speculated as she eyed the empty pectin
boxes. Miles away from more pectin, we had dispatched
Adrienne to Zapata, including instructions to bring
supper, too, for it was now nearly 7 p.m., and the
kitchen, now awash in colors for Lent, was in no shape
to cook a meal. On the off-chance that more sugar
might make it thicker, two of us ran into San Ygnacio
to buy sugar at Pepe's.
Long story short: all the pectin in Zapata, all the
sugar in San Ygnacio would not make our purple concoction
the consistency of jelly or jam.
"Let's fill 'em," I said as I sterilized
one after another of the jars and brass-ringed screw
tops. The sloshing had only just begun. Purple and
magenta spatters covered the stovetop, the tiled countertop,
and the clothing, faces, and arms of some of us. The
color of the bubbling foam of the mix in the cauldron
was lovely, and just about the requisite 212°,
information that none of the Internet recipes provided
but that had come to us via the canning instructions
inside the box of jars.
Diana had done a remarkable job of keeping the dishes
clean and the work space organized. Whatever pot or
pan had just been enlisted on the stovetop was washed
immediately after use. Adrienne was intrepid, calling
up all her refined culinary skills in the effort to
make our product have the delicious and artful outcomes
she has in her catering business.
Dr. Jeffrey provided a narrative of successes she'd
had making preserves other times. Me, I was taking
notes.
A little out of sequence, one of us began to read
the Internet recipes carefully. "It says if we
had left the peel on, the peel would have provided
natural pectin." If our friend hadn't already
been so artfully covered with purple, we'd probably
have whacked her a time or two with our purple wooden
spoons and given her yet another dose of anti-oxidants.
Eight hours into this canning adventure, patience
was wafting up the chimney with the lazy smoke of
the spent hearth fire. There were piles, mounds of
surplus pear at the hearth, in a blue plastic dishpan
on the floor, in the ice chest. The chickens had already
gotten a load of processed fruit and would likely
enjoy yet another before sunset.
"We can call it syrup. It's very pretty,"
one of us offered.
"Syrup comes in bottles," another said,
a comment so illuminating, utterance of which one
would not register surprise at hearing, coming from
so educated a milieu of fine minds, no less than 25
years of higher education among us.
"We had too many recipes, that was the problem,"
one of us said in the moment that we spooned the color
purple onto our ice cream.
This morning, alarmed that my little four-cup coffee
maker was glued to the countertop with prickly pear
juice, I noted, too, that some of the grout of the
counter tiles had changed to the color of majesty.
I mused at my friends, who last night, unfazed and
in a state of deep magenta exhaustion, suggested that
sooner than later we should undertake jelly making
again and do it right.
Unbelievably, as I recounted yesterday's work to LareDOS
editor Tom Moore, he shared with me the news that
Tony Ramirez' Medicine Man column in this very issue
of LareDOS has a recipe for making prickly pear jelly.